NEW YORK vs LONDON: A PEN-BASED ANALYSIS

As I may have mentioned once or twice before, earlier this summer, I won a trip to New York with Virgin Atlantic’s vtravelled site. I wrote this piece for their blog.

In many ways, the cities of London and New York are very similar. They both have lots of buildings. The names of both cities contain letters. Men and women walk freely in the streets, occasionally crossing roads or getting the bus. There are shops.

And yet, the cities of London and New York are also very different. One (New York) is in the United States, the other (London) is in the United Kingdom. In London, people say “pavement” and “lift” and pluralise the word “math”. In New York, they say “Eh, I’m walkin’ ‘ere!” and “Are you talkin’ to me?” and “Later that night I got to thinking that maybe Miranda was mistaken”.

But, perhaps the clearest way to illustrate the many and varied differences between London and New York is by studying the souvenir pens on offer in the two cities.

As any connoisseur would know, there are essentially three main genres of souvenir pens, all of which deserve their own consideration, examination and celebration. At the most basic level, you have the “pictorial” pen. Beyond that you have the “floaty” pen. Finally, the most elaborate of all souvenir pens – the “sculptural” pen.

PICTORIAL
Pictorial pens represent souvenir pens at their most basic form. Essentially, they are nothing more than a pen with something (usually a picture) printed on the body.

Interestingly, the actual physical form of the “pictorial” pens available in both New York and London is identical, all that differs is the imagery printed on the pens themselves. This chosen imagery illustrates the different ways in which the two cities view themselves. New York souvenirism is very confident – it is aware of the city’s own iconic status and celebrates itself (pens dressed as yellow taxis, dollar bills, the Statue of Liberty, insanity workout etc). Where nostalgia is allowed to creep in, it is only in the most heroic of circumstances – the Twin Towers still thrust themselves into the skyline in the world of souvenir penship.

On the other hand, London souvenir pens desperately grab on to any idea of history in an attempt to justify their own existence, regardless of how valid that claim may or may not be. Consequently, one pen I bought in Bloomsbury celebrates “Historical London” on the lid, yet alongside images of St Paul’s, the Houses of Parliament and Tower Bridge the pen also includes pictures of the London Eye and the Gherkin (buildings which can’t be much older than the pen itself). One area in which London obviously trumps New York is with regard to royalty (I am in no way ignorant of global affairs but I genuinely struggle to think of the name of the King Of America). Even in this obviously anachronistic field, the souvenir shops of London specialise in a desperate kind of historicalism – the Queen Mother and Princess Diana dominate the scene.
NEW YORK: 3/5
LONDON: 2/5

FLOATY
Probably the most famous example of the floaty pen is that which in one orientation features a bikini clad lady, and as it is upturned reveals her full and exciting nakedness (“You know who would like these pens?” Homer Simpson once asked Apu. “Men”.)

Beyond allowing stationery-obsessed men a brief but exhilarating glimpse at female nudity, the floaty pen is also a way in which geographical realities can be represented in pen form.

Consequently, the visitor to New York can buy a pen which, as it is slowly upturned, recreates with astonishing accuracy that time when King Kong climbed up the Empire State Building by showing a small plastic gorilla slowly gliding up the side of a skyscraper. I was impressed by the historical accuracy of this pen, but hoped to see more up to date versions. Unfortunately, I was unable to find any pen, which when turned on its side, showed a small plastic plane slowly glide into the Twin Towers.

It would be unfair to suggest this illustrates any kind of particular squeamishness on the part of Americans. In just the same way, our own 9/11 – the death of Diana – has largely been overlooked by the manufacturers of floaty pens (as far as I am aware, you cannot get a pen in which a small plastic Mercedes crashes into the wall of a tunnel as it is turned on its side. Having said that, I haven’t been to Paris since before 1997, so who knows what is on offer).

The London floaty features a small plastic boat gliding along the Thames. Slowly. The reverse of the pen is labelled “Glorious Britain”, but I am not impressed. There seems very little which could be considered “glorious” about this pen.

In terms of spectacle, I would rather watch King Kong climbing up the Empire State Building than see a boat sail along the Thames (perhaps I am an unfair judge, I have seen boats on the Thames many times before. I have never seen a giant gorilla scale the Empire State Building).
NEW YORK: 4/5
LONDON: 1/5

SCULPTURAL
The sculptural pen is defined by the inclusion of a local landmark or figure recreated in molded plastic perched on top of the pen. Ideally, it helps if the chosen landmark is quite linear in form so as to continue the line of the pen. For this reason, towers and statues are ideal. Beaches or lakes are not really suitable.

New York, of course, has the perfect sculptural pen icon in the form of the Statue of Liberty. It’s almost as if it had been DESIGNED to appear on the top of a souvenir pen (it wasn’t – the injection molding process used to produce the pens hadn’t been invented in 1886 when the statue was presented to America by the people of France). However, there is one flaw in the design of the Statue of Liberty which impacts on its suitability for this type of pen: the torch. When cheaply produced in plastic, the upraised arm can be fragile. In fact, I bought two Statue of Liberty pens during my trip. The flame of the torch snapped off one. The poor lady’s hand snapped off the other.

London doesn’t really have anything like the Statue of Liberty which sits as well on the top of a pen. There’s Big Ben of course, but that looks a bit odd separated from the Houses of Parliament. Nelson’s Column isn’t iconic enough. The London Eye is too round. Tower Bridge is too wide. The Angus Steakhouse on Shaftesbury Avenue apparently isn’t important enough to justify a pen.

Instead, London is forced to rely on its more mundane features for sculptural pens – red telephone boxes (the sort which don’t really exist anymore) and policeman’s helmets. It is a sad state of affairs when, as a country, the best thing we have to celebrate in pen form is a phone box and a tall hat.
NEW YORK: 4/5
LONDON: 1/5

RESULTS
Using simple mental arithmetic (or, if you must, a calculator), we can see that London scores a very disappointing four out of fifteen. This is particularly poor when compared to New York, which scored an impressive eleven out of fifteen. New York is almost three times better at souvenir stationery than London. Our national pride is at stake here. Come on, Gordon Brown, do something about it – you’re the prime minister, it’s your job.

NEW YORK CITY BOY: PART FIVE

Part One
Part Two
Part Three
Part Four

I didn’t only buy Cadbury’s Twirls when I was in New York. That would have been a waste. I explored the city. I went to Broadway:


They had a whole wall dedicated to Post-it Notes:


I bought two Post-it Note flag pens:


Geoff Nicholson is a big fan of Post-it Note flag pens.

I also bought some Wite-Out:


Then I went to a shop called Typewriters ‘N Things:


I didn’t actually see any typewriters in the shop, maybe they had them in the back or something. They had a fine selection of notebooks. I bought a set of three Writersblok notebooks and a Dixon Ticonderoga pencil:


The man in the shop offered to sharpen the pencil for me, but I said it was fine. I recently bought a 1970s vintage Staedtler pencil sharpener from eBay, so when that arrives, I can use that:


I thought the frontage to this shop looked amazing:


I was tempted to buy this:


Especially as the was 50% off, but it was a bit bulky and I didn’t fancy carrying it around all day.

Instead, I bought a Trodat date stamp:


I’ve always liked date stamps, probably because for many years I worked in libraries.

The box was a bit battered, but the stamp itself is beautiful:


It must have been on the shelf a long time without anyone buying it. The date range runs from 01/01/1986 through to 31/12/1997. It must have been sitting on that shelf since the late 1980s, and for the last thirteen years it has been functionally obsolete. I think the date bands are replaceable, but I’ll keep it the way it is.

NEW YORK CITY BOY: PART FOUR

Part One
Part Two
Part Three

Like most people who go to New York, I took the opportunity to go shopping. Before I went, I looked online and found out all about the very best shops. I wrote down the addresses in my notebook. I marked the locations on my map. I planned my route. There was something specific I wanted to buy. Cadbury’s Twirls.

I found three shops I thought were likely to sell Twirls, but was only successful in two of them. You can insert your own Meat Loaf joke here if you wish.

CARRY ON TEA & SYMPATHY

Carry On Tea & Sympathy
108 Greenwich Avenue
New York, NY 10011

TWIRL AVAILABILITY: Excellent
TWIRL STORAGE: On shelf
TWIRL PRICE: $1.75
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: This small store is next to a small cafe/restaurant which sells traditional English food. The store itself is in the style of those old fashioned grocery stores which probably don’t actually exist in England any more:

Quite expensive ($1.75 is about £1.15, which is the most I have ever spent on a Twirl) although it is the first time I have ever bought a Twirl overseas, so that’s quite exciting.

MYERS OF KESWICK

Myers of Keswick
634 Hudson Street
(between Horatio and Jane St.)
New York, NY 10014

TWIRL AVAILABILITY: Don’t sell
TWIRL STORAGE: N/A
TWIRL PRICE: N/A
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: I had high hopes for this store. As I walked in I saw a big display of Walkers crisps and then on top of the counter, a row of glass jars containing Cadbury’s Buttons and Aeros. On another counter, they had Time Outs and Twixes.

I looked around, hopeful. I couldn’t see any Twirls. I asked the woman behind the counter if they sold Cadbury’s Twirls. She shook her head. I managed to hold back the tears until I was out of the shop and at least a block away.

ECONOMY CANDY

Economy Candy
108 Rivington Street
New York, NY 10002

TWIRL AVAILABILITY: Excellent
TWIRL STORAGE: On shelf
TWIRL PRICE: $1.49
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: A fantastic little shop selling all kinds of candy and sweets and chocolate and god knows what else. Long queues as it’s such a popular store. The woman in front of me complained to her friend that she wasn’t feeling well, although I don’t think this was anything to do with the shop itself.

NEW YORK CITY BOY: PART THREE

Part One is here. Part Two is here.

A photo tour of room 1412 of the Royalton Hotel (44 West 44th Street, New York, NY 10036, United States).

As you can see, the room features a large sofa (ideal for sitting on, although it is also useful if, for instance, you get in and take off your jacket and can’t be bothered to hang it up properly – you can just throw it onto the sofa). There is also, just to the left, a desk. Just out of shot, next to (and partially under) the desk is a chair. There is also a telephone and some sort of radio/MP3 player thing (I didn’t use that, but it was nice to have the option).

Of course, it is traditional for hotel rooms to come complete with a bed, and room 1412 of the Royalton Hotel is no exception:

In reality, the bed isn’t nearly as blurry as in the photo above. The bed is ideal for sleeping in. It has pillows at one end for resting your head. The rest of the bed is covered in a large duvet. By climbing underneath the duvet (but remaining above the bed; lying between the mattress and the duvet in fact) you can sleep for as many hours as you wish, while remaining warm. To the right of the bed is a flat screen television.

After (or before) going to sleep you may wish to use the bathroom. Although called a “bathroom”, the room did not in fact have a bath. Instead it had a shower. This suited me, as I prefer showers anyway.

There is also a sink:

Again, in reality, the sink is actually in focus.

There is a telephone next to the toilet:

I really hope no-one ever telephones me from the toilet. What call could ever be so urgent that it couldn’t wait until you’ve finished? The only possible reason to telephone someone from a toilet is in the case of a medical emergency where you need to call 999 (or “911″ in the US). Actually, as it’s a hotel, you might need to dial another number to get an external line. I’m not sure. Maybe you’d need to ring down to reception. Fortunately, my bowels did not cause me any problems during my stay and so I did not need to use this telephone.

If you get hungry, there is a small selection of overpriced snacks available:

No Twirls, sadly.

There is also a well stocked minibar:

Again though, this was quite expensive. What I did is I went to the shop around the corner and bought some cans of Budweiser for a few pounds (or “dollars” as they are called in America).

Thoughtfully, the hotel also provides a number of other items, such as painkillers, adaptors and candles:

The hotel also provides an impressive range of condoms. First up, we have a pack of three “sheer premium lubricated latex condoms” from Proper Attire:

Secondly, a “Mobile Intimacy Kit” from Mile High:

Finally, the Morgans Hotel Group intimacy kit:

Can there be any two words in the English language more sexy than “antiseptic towelettes”?

NEW YORK CITY BOY: PART TWO

Part One is here.

The VS045 flight from London Heathrow to New York JFK carried 371 passengers (including 17 crew) and was piloted by a man called Antony. I missed his surname. I suppose I could email to find out, or I could just make something up. I shall do the latter. Captain Antony Andthejohnsons.

I settled into my seat. It had lots of buttons:

The plane took off. I thought it was probably quite unlikely that the whole thing was a joke by this stage.

I looked out of the window. There were clouds:

The food was good. To start with, I had a salmon and avocado salad:

Look, the salt and pepper pots are shaped like little chubby planes. The salad was followed lamb with minted new potatoes, green beans and carrots:

I skippped desert, and went for cheese and biscuits with a glass of port:

Then I watched Sex & Drugs & Rock ‘n’ Roll, the Ian Dury biopic. It was good, Andy Serkis was excellent. I also watched Lizzie & Sarah, which wasn’t very good. By this time, I was beginning to feel a bit tired and fancied a bit of a nap. I pressed a button on the seat and the whole thing slowly flipped over, transforming into a completely flat bed. It was quite magical.

And then we landed:

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